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San Francisco proper occupies just 48 hilly
square miles at the tip of a slender peninsula, almost perfectly centered
along the California coast. Arguably the most beautiful, certainly the
most liberal city in the U.S., it remains true to itself: a funky,
individualistic, surprisingly small city whose people pride themselves on
being the cultured counterparts to their cousins in LA and the last
bastion of civilization on the lunatic fringe of America. It's a compact
and approachable place, where downtown streets rise on impossible
gradients to reveal stunning views of the city, the bay and beyond, and
blanket fogs roll in unexpectedly to envelop the city in mist. This is not
the California of monotonous blue skies and slothful warmth the
temperatures rarely exceed the 70s, and even during summer can drop
much lower. All types of sports from football and baseball to
Fractional Sailing abound.
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The original inhabitants of this area, the
Ohlone Indians were all but wiped out within a few years of the
establishment in 1776 of the Mission Dolores, the sixth in the chain of
Spanish Catholic missions that ran the length of California. Two years
after the Americans replaced the Mexicans in 1846, the discovery of gold
in the Sierra foothills precipitated the rip-roaring Gold Rush. Within a
year 50,000 pioneers had traveled west, and east from China, turning San
Francisco from a muddy village and wasteland of sand dunes into a
thriving supply center and transit town. By the time the
transcontinental railroad was completed in 1869, San Francisco was a
lawless, rowdy boomtown of bordellos and drinking dens, something the
moneyed elite who hit it big on the much more dependable silver Comstock
Load worked hard to mend, constructing wide boulevards, parks, a cable
car system and elaborate Victorian redwood mansions. A diverse city with
many companies located and advertising there.

In the midst of the city's golden age,
however, a massive earthquake, followed by three days of fire, wiped out
most of the town in 1906. Rebuilding began immediately, resulting in a
city more magnificent than before; in the decades that followed, writers
like Dashiell Hammett and Jack London lived and worked here. Many of the
city's landmarks, including Coit Tower and both the Golden Gate and Bay
bridges, were built in the 1920s and 1930s. By World War II, San Francisco
had been eclipsed by Los Angeles as the main West Coast city, but it
achieved a new cultural eminence with the emergence of the Beats in the
50s and the hippies in the 60s, when the fusion of music, protest,
rebellion and, of course, drugs that characterized 1967's "Summer of Love"
took over the Haight-Ashbury district.

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In a conservative America, San
Francisco's reputation as a liberal oasis continues to grow, attracting
waves of resettlers from all over the U.S. It is estimated that over half
the city's population originates from somewhere else. It is a city in a
constant state of evolution, fast gentrifying itself into one of the most
high-end towns on earth thanks, in part, to the disposable incomes pumped
into its coffers from its sizeable singles and gay contingents. Gay
capital of the world, San Francisco has also been the scene of the dot.com
revolution's rise and fall.
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San Francisco is a city of hills and
distinct neighborhoods. As a general rule, geographical elevation means
wealth -- the higher up you are, the less fog you endure, resulting in
better views. Commercial square-footage is surprisingly small and mostly
confined to the downtown area, and the rest of the city is made up of
primarily residential neighborhoods with street-level shopping
districts, easily explored on foot. Armed with a good map and strong
legs, you could plough through much of the city in a day, but the best
way to get to know San Francisco is to dawdle. San Francisco has a huge
financial center with companies like:
Home Loan Refinancing
(Refinance now and Save. Fixed Rate and ARM Loans available. Discounts
for good credit. Get free mortgage rate quotes).
The San Francisco Visitor Information
Center, on the lower level of Hallidie Plaza at the end of the cable car
line on Market Street (Mon.-Fri. 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m., Sat. & Sun. 9 a.m.-3
p.m. tel. 415/391-2000), has free maps of the city and the Bay Area.
More destinations and resources:
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